Is It Flowers You’re After?
Orchid bowl
Title: Blooms and Beyond: The Art and Science of Orchid Care
Many people treat a beautiful Orchid like a bouquet of flowers—something that looks stunning for a few weeks and then gets tossed. But at BnB So.Cal, we view Orchids as architectural, long-term investments for your indoor space.
With 15 years of greenhouse experience in the Fallbrook canyons, I’ve learned that Orchids aren't actually "fussy"—they just have specific "plumbing" requirements. Here is how to keep your specialty Orchids thriving long after the first bloom.
1. It’s All About the Light (Not the Heat)
In Southern California, our sun is powerful. While Orchids love light, they hate direct midday sun, which can scorch their leaves.
The Sweet Spot: A north or east-facing window is best. If you have a south-facing window, pull the plant back a few feet or use a sheer curtain.
The Leaf Test: Dark green leaves mean they need more light. "Grassy" or light green leaves mean the light is perfect.
2. Hydration vs. Drowning
The #1 killer of Orchids is overwatering. Most Orchids are epiphytes, meaning in nature, they grow on trees with their roots exposed to air.
The "Silver" Rule: Look at the roots. If they look silvery-grey, it’s time to water. If they are bright green, they are still hydrated.
The Technique: Never let an Orchid sit in a pool of water. Drench the bark/moss thoroughly in the sink, let it drain completely for 10 minutes, and then return it to its decorative pot.
3. The "After-Bloom" Secret
When the flowers finally fall, don’t give up! Your Orchid is just entering a rest cycle.
Pruning: Cut the flower spike back to about an inch above the highest "node" (the little bump on the stem). This often encourages a second flush of blooms.
Temperature Drop: To force a new spike, Orchids love a "chill" at night. A 10-degree drop in temperature (common in our Fallbrook nights) tells the plant it's time to flower again.